Take the FlyBus (or rent a car) from Keflavik airport to Reykjavik 101 (downtown). This is where you’ll find the majority of the city’s bars, restaurants, cafés, museums, and galleries. Very walkable. Explore your surroundings and take a stroll along the harbor or Tjornin Pond. To keep costs down (as hotels can be quite expensive), an Airbnb with a kitchen might be more budget-friendly. There are several small markets in the area (Ginger, etc.) Wine and alcohol are sold separately at the Vinbudin.

Day 2  

Either via car, or with one of the many tour companies that offer day tours, take the Golden Circle Tour. This includes the expansive waterfall Gullfoss, the still-erupting geyser named Geysir (yes, this is where we get the word), and Thingvellir National Park where the North American and Eurasian Tectonic Plates meet. This was the site of Iceland’s earliest parliament over a thousand years ago, as Thingvellir literally means Assembly Fields. For the more adventurous, don a dry suit and snorkel between the two plates, although you will have to arrange for this in Reykjavik.

Day 3   

Back in Reykjavik, visit the National Museum for a historical perspective of Iceland, The Settlement Museum to view ancient Viking longhouses,  and the Kjarval Museum (Kjarvalsstaðir) to view the incredible talent of Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval, one of the most prolific and important Icelandic artists. In the evening, a 40-minute drive takes you to the Fakasel Icelandic Horse Show where you can dine while watching these incredible creatures (they have 5 gaits, including the tölt which is unique to this breed.)

Day 4  

Head out towards the Snaefellsness peninsula. Icelandic horse riding is available at Breidivík. Near Arnarstapi, a coastal trail leads to Hellner, or a tour of the Snæfellsjökull glacier can be arranged. This volcano last erupted in 200 A.D. and is the setting of Jules Verne’s ‘Journey to the Center of the Earth.’ Drive along the north coast of Snaefellness and spend the night in Stykkishhólmur, a charming town of colorful houses and delicious seafood.

Day 5  

In the morning, take the Baldur ferry to Flatey Island for the day (or spend the night if you chose). This is a small island with a rich history and sheep and puffins galore. The church’s interior is painted with scenes of the island’s life, created by a Spanish painter, Baltasar Samper, in the 1960s. The island also inhabits the oldest and smallest library in Iceland, established in 1864. This library was once home to the Flatey Book, the largest of medieval Icelandic manuscripts.

Day 6 

On your return to Reykjavik, visit Langjökull to explore tunnels and caves, or go snowmobiling. A visit to Iceland’s Nobel Prize in Literature Halldor Laxness’ home and museum at Gljúfrasteinn can also be arranged. 

Day 7  

Explore the many stores and galleries along Laugavegur, Bankastræti, and Austurstræti or bathe in the Blue Lagoon before heading back to Keflavik airport and home.

Want to learn more and explore the best of Iceland in 7 days? Listen to my Travel Tales with Mike Siegel on Stitcher or on the Apple podcasts now.

The post Iceland in 7 Days appeared first on Sara Winokur.

Take the FlyBus (or rent a car) from Keflavik airport to Reykjavik 101 (downtown). This is where you’ll find the majority of the city’s bars, restaurants, cafés, museums and galleries. Very walkable. Explore your surroundings and take a stroll along the harbor or Tjornin Pond. To keep costs down (as hotels can be quite expensive), and airbnb with a kitchen might be more budget friendly. There are several small markets in the area (Ginger, etc.) Wine and alcohol are sold separately at the Vinbudin.

Day 2  

Either via car or with one of the many tour companies that offer day tours, take the Golden Circle Tour. This includes the expansive waterfall Gullfoss, the still-erupting geyser named Geysir (yes, this is where we get the word), and Thingvellir National Park where the North American and Eurasian Tectonic Plates meet. This was the site of Iceland’s earliest parliament over a thousand years ago, as Thingvellir literally means Assembly Fields. For the more adventurous, don a dry suit and snorkel between the two plates, although you will have to arrange for this in Reykjavik.

Day 3   

Back in Reykjavik, visit the National Museum for a historical perspective of Iceland, The Settlement Museum to view ancient Viking longhouses, and the Kjarval Museum (Kjarvalsstaðir) to view the incredible talent of Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval, one of the most prolific and important Icelandic artists. In the evening, a 40-minute drive takes you to the Fakasel Icelandic Horse Show where you can dine while watching these incredible creatures (they have 5 gaits, including the tölt which is unique to this breed.)

South Iceland option: 

Day 4 

On your way out of Reykjavik, stop in at Earth Cooking in Hveragerði to eat foods cooked by geothermal steam! Visit the quaint old fishing towns of Eyrabakki and Stokkseyri before taking the car ferry out to the Westmann Islands, where the Eldfell volcano erupted in 1973, evacuating the town. Now it is a thriving fishing village. In 1624, Barbary pirates raided the islands and took 400 Icelanders as slaves back to Algeria. 

Stay the night on the Westman Islands.

Day 5  

Spend the day enjoying the beauty and history of the Westman Islands. Boat trips along the island’s cliffs are awesome, as is the museum at the volcano site.

Day 6 

Return to the mainland and continue east. Many beautiful waterfalls are located along the southern expanse of fertile land here. From Reykjavik, the first two you will encounter are Skógafoss and the magnificent Seljalandsfoss (which you can walk behind). Hike inland from Skogar to Porsmork, a verdant inland valley. If arranged ahead of time, basic overnight facilities are available.

Day 7 

Heading east, stop at the Reynisfjara Beach with its black sand, enormous columns of basalt, and massive waves crashing into the shore. Be careful! Unsuspecting travelers with their backs to the waves have been swept out to sea here. Continue on to Skatafell, where you can go ice climbing or simply view the massive glacier.

Day 8  

This day should be set aside for the magnificent Jökulsárlon Ice Lagoon, where a zodiac tour can be taken amongst the calving glacier. A James Bond scene was once filmed here. One can either choose to go snowmobiling on the Vatnjökull glacier or spend the night in Hofn and stock up on essentials.

Day 9 

Drive back to Reykjavik and visit the exhibit on the Eyjafyallajokull volcano eruption in 2010. If you plan on spending more than 10 days in Iceland, here’s my blog on Iceland in 14-21 days.

North Iceland option:

Day 4  

Drive (5 hours)  or fly (40 minutes) from Reykjavik to Akureyri.  Spend the day exploring the charming town of Akureyri, Iceland’s second-largest city with a population of ~ 20,000 people. Akureyri sits at the bottom of a beautiful fjord and has terrific shops and restaurants.

Day 5 

Drive to the Myvatn Nature Baths and soak in the geothermal waters. On the way, stop at the awe-inspiring Godafoss waterfall and marvel at the power of nature.

After Myvatn, a 1 hour or so drive further north will take you to the powerful Dettifoss waterfall. 

Day 6  

Drive to Husavik and take a whale watching tour. This is a charming town known as the whale watching capital of Iceland. Nearby is the stunning GeoSea, with its geothermal infinity pools overlooking a fjord. Relax and have a bite to eat and a beer while soaking in the warm waters.

Day 7  

Take a drive up the winding coastline road to Siglufjordur for the day. Siglufjörður is famous for its Herring Festival which is held every year in August, and for its Herring Museum.  Þjóðlagahátíðin á Siglufirði is a music festival which is held every year in July. It is also the town where the Icelandic series ‘Trapped’ was filmed.

Day 8  

Take a small plane or the ferry north to Grimsey Island, which straddles the Arctic Circle. You can have your photo taken (a bit corny) if you’re so inclined. Lots of puffins and a beautiful orange lighthouse.

Day 9 

Take the morning ferry out the Hrisey Island for a walkabout and to view seabirds. Careful not to get too close to the artic tern nests, though, unless you want terns divebombing down upon you. Eat at the café there and then drive back to Reykjavik.

Day 10  

Explore the many stores and galleries along Laugavegur, Bankastræti and Austurstræti or bathe in the Blue Lagoon before heading back to Keflavik airport and home.

Want to hear more about my experiences in Iceland? Listen to my Travel Tales with Mike Siegel now.

The post Iceland in 10 Days appeared first on Sara Winokur.

Day 1  

Take the FlyBus (or rent a car) from Keflavik airport to Reykjavik 101 (downtown). This is where you’ll find the majority of the city’s bars, restaurants, cafés, museums, and galleries. Very walkable. Explore your surroundings and take a stroll along the harbor or Tjornin Pond. To keep costs down (as hotels can be quite expensive), an Airbnb with a kitchen might be more budget-friendly. There are several small markets in the area (Ginger, etc.) Wine and alcohol are sold separately at the Vinbudin. Find more general tips on Iceland travel here.

Day 2  

Either via car or with one of the many tour companies that offer day tours, take the Golden Circle Tour. This includes the expansive waterfall Gullfoss, the still-erupting geyser named Geysir (yes, this is where we get the word), and Thingvellir National Park where the North American and Eurasian Tectonic Plates meet. This was the site of Iceland’s earliest parliament over a thousand years ago, as Thingvellir literally means Assembly Fields. For the more adventurous, don a dry suit and snorkel between the two plates, although you will have to arrange for this in Reykjavik.

Day 3   

Back in Reykjavik, visit the National Museum for a historical perspective of Iceland, The Settlement Museum to view ancient Viking longhouses, and the Kjarval Museum (Kjarvalsstaðir) to view the incredible talent of Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval, one of the most prolific and important Icelandic artists. In the evening, a 40-minute drive takes you to the Fakasel Icelandic Horse Show where you can dine while watching these incredible creatures (they have 5 gaits, including the tölt which is unique to this breed.)

South Iceland: 

Day 4 

On your way out of Reykjavik, stop in at Earth Cooking in Hveragerði to eat foods cooked by geothermal steam! Visit the quaint old fishing towns of Eyrabakki and Stokkseyri before taking the car ferry out to the Westmann Islands, where the Eldfell volcano erupted in 1973, evacuating the town. Now it is a thriving fishing village. In 1624, Barbary pirates raided the islands and took 400 Icelanders as slaves back to Algeria. Spend the night on the Westmann Islands.

Day 5  

Spend the day enjoying the beauty and history of the Westman Islands. Boat trips along the island’s cliffs are awesome, as is the museum at the volcano site.

Day 6 

Return to the mainland and continue east. Many beautiful waterfalls are located along the southern expanse of fertile land here. From Reykjavik, the first two you will encounter are Skógafoss and the magnificent Seljalandsfoss (which you can walk behind). 

At Skogar and hike inland from Skogar to Porsmork, a verdant inland valley. If arranged ahead of time, basic overnight facilities are available.

Day 7 

Heading east, stop at the Reynisfjara Beach with its black sand, enormous columns of basalt, and massive waves crashing into the shore. Be careful! Unsuspecting travelers with their backs to the waves have been swept out to sea here. Continue on to Skatafell, where you can go ice climbing or simply view the massive glacier.

Day 8  

This day should be set aside for the magnificent Jökulsárlon Ice Lagoon, where a zodiac tour can be taken amongst the calving glacier. A James Bond scene was once filmed here. One can either choose to go snowmobiling on the Vatnjökull glacier or spend the night in Hofn and stock up on essentials.

Eastfjords:

Day 9  

Drive to the town of Djúpivogur and take a boat trip out to Papey Island (reservation required) where you will be met with a flock of seabirds and remains of an old settlement of friars.

Day 10  

Drive to the charming town of Seydisfjordur through a stunning valley. It’s a long drive but stunning. Stay the night. This photo was taken in July at 1 am!

North Iceland:

Day 11  

Drive to the Myvatn Nature Baths and soak in the geothermal waters. After Myvatn, a 1 hour or so drive further north will take you to the powerful Dettifoss waterfall. On the way to Akureyri, stop at the awe-inspiring Godafoss waterfall and marvel at the power of nature.

Day 12  

Drive to Husavik and take a whale watching tour. This is a charming town known as the whale-watching capital of Iceland. Nearby is the stunning GeoSea, with its geothermal infinity pools overlooking a fjord. Relax and have a bite to eat and a beer while soaking in the warm waters.

Day 13 

Spend the day exploring the charming town of Akureyri, Iceland’s second-largest city with a population of ~ 20,000 people. Akureyri sits at the bottom of a beautiful fjord and has terrific shops and restaurants.

Day 14  

Take a drive up the winding coastline road to Siglufjordur for the day. Siglufjörður is famous for its Herring Festival which is held every year in August, and for its Herring Museum.  Þjóðlagahátíðin á Siglufirði is a music festival which is held every year in July. It is also the town where the Icelandic series ‘Trapped’ was filmed.

Day 15  

Take a small plane or the ferry north to Grimsey Island, which straddles the Arctic Circle. You can have your photo taken (a bit corny) if you’re so inclined. Lots of puffins and a beautiful orange lighthouse.

Day 16 

Take the morning ferry out the Hrisey Island for a walkabout and to view seabirds. Careful not to get too close to the arctic tern nests, though, unless you want terns divebombing down upon you. 

Westfjords:

Day 17-19 

Drive to the Westfjords, the least explored (touristed) region of Iceland. Visit the Arctic Fox Center, the Latrabjarg sea cliff which stretches 8.75 mi and 1,447 ft. This majestic cliff’s claim to fame is that it is the westernmost point in Europe and hosts Iceland’s greatest concentration of seabirds. You can return the car in the largest town on the Westfjords, Isafjordur (amazing fish stew!), and fly back to Reykjavik or drive back down.

Day 20  

Explore the many stores and galleries along Laugavegur, Bankastræti, and Austurstræti or bathe in the Blue Lagoon before heading back to Keflavik airport and home.

Want to hear more about Iceland and how to plan your next trip to the north with breath-taking views no matter where you are? Listen to my Travel Tales with Mike Siegel on Stitcher or on the Apple podcasts now.

The post Iceland in 14-21 Days appeared first on Sara Winokur.

2)         Mid-June through mid-August are by far the busiest tourist seasons. So, if you want to avoid the crowds, go in May, early June, late August or September.

3)         Iceland lies just below the Arctic circle. Therefore, the sun does not set until midnight in the summer, and winter days can get as little as 4 hours of sunlight a day. 

4)         Puffin season is from early April until September. Whale watching follows the same.

5)         Ice cave tours and Jökulsárlon boat tours operate generally from April through October.

6)         PLEASE respect nature! Stay on trails and do not create your own. Pack it in, pack it out when hiking. Do not leave trash or tissue paper anywhere. And be careful with those selfies. Guiderails are often non-existent.

7)         Public transport is spotty in Iceland. No trains, and buses are infrequent. If you will not be taking day tours or multi-day tours with a company, you will have to rent a car. Most roads are accessible with a 2-wheel drive but several, especially in the highlands and in winter, require a 4-wheel drive.

8)         Although Icelanders are incredibly proud of their unique history and language, English is widely spoken as well.

9)         I would not recommend traveling the entire Ring Road unless you have a minimum of 12 days in Iceland. You could do it in 10 days but will be in the car quite a bit and while the scenery is gorgeous and otherworldly, you will miss many opportunities such as whale-watching, hiking, snowmobiling, glacier climbs, museums, etc!

10)       Take a horseback ride at some point, but do not call the Icelandic Horse a pony! Yes, they are small but full-grown.

For more advice on Iceland travel, what to expect, and must-see places, catch my Travel Tales with Mike Siegel now.

The post General Tips on Iceland Travel appeared first on Sara Winokur.

I’ve been back to Iceland many times since that first visit, in part to research my novel Double Blind. But truth be told, even if the story had not been set in Iceland, I’d have been back just as many times. Some of the best adventures have been with my family. When we were all together this weekend, my daughter Olivia surprised me with some illustrations she’d drawn up. You can check out her work on Instagram @oliviawinokur

Munkathverá (or Munkaþverá with Icelandic’s þ, the runic letter thorn) is a church adjacent to a farm (also named Munkathverá) in North Iceland that plays a key role in the novel. The word translates to Monk’s River as the church sits on the site of a medieval monastery. The farmstead once belonged to one of the original settlers in Iceland.

Many of Iceland’s lighthouses are painted a bright orange. Why? To contrast with the often-snowy landscapes. Iceland was settled in the 10th century by sea-faring peoples and has, until recently, relied primarily on fishing for its livelihood. No one knows better than Icelanders how important the sea is. Films such as The Deep (Djúpið) and The Sea (Hafið) capture this bond between man and sea.

The post Iceland Twiceland Thriceland appeared first on Sara Winokur.

First, the fictional ones . . .  

The myth of the Patagonian Giants was conjured up by Magellan and his crew in the 1520s and captured the European imagination for centuries. Antonio Pigafetta, one of the few survivors of the expedition, described one such encounter with the indigineaous people now believed to have been the Tehuelches:  

One day (without anyone expecting it) we saw a giant, who was on the shore, quite naked, and who danced, leaped, and sang, and while he sang he threw sand and dust on his head. Our captain [Magellan] sent one of his men toward him, charging him to leap and sing like the other in order to reassure him and to show him friendship. Which he did. Immediately the man of the ship, dancing, led this giant to a small island where the captain awaited him. And when he was before us, he began to marvel and to be afraid, and he raised one finger upward, believing that we came from heaven. And he was so tall that the tallest of us only came up to his waist. 

Pigafetta referred to these ‘giants’ as Patagão (or Patagón) and the region as the Land of the Big Feet. The etymology is unclear. Either the word derives from Spanish and Portuguese pata “paw, animal foot” in reference to the natives’ guanaco-skin shoes, or from a savage character named Patagón, the hero in a Spanish chivalry novel by Francisco Vázquez.  

And now for the ‘real’ giants . . . 

Giant rhubarb everywhere! Gunnera tinctoria or Chilean rhubarb, is a large-leafed, flowering perennial that grows up to eight feet high. Native to Patagonia, giant rhubarb was brought to Ireland and Scotland as an ornamental plant for gardens in the 1930s but is now considered invasive as it grows unchecked, displacing native flora. The stalks are edible and the leaves used in the traditional Chilean dish curanto. Although giant rhubarb looks similar from a distance to the cultivated rhubarb (Rheum) in more northerly climes, the two plants are unrelated and belong into different orders. Good thing, as rhubarb leaves can be quite toxic: the plant plays a sinister role in my novel Double Blind: The Icelandic Manuscript Murders.  

Giant mussels!

No, not the kind of muscles I need to hike the up-and-down steep trails of Fitz Roy, Torres del Paine, and Parque Patagonia, but the seafood variety. Not my favorite. But I’ll take the hake (merluza) any day. A lean white fish that is part of the cod family, hake pairs perfectly with Chilean tempranillo wine. Hmmm. More later. The sleeping giant awakes. Time for dinner.  

The post In the Land of Giants appeared first on Sara Winokur.